Enjoy Old South style in and around classy Tallahassee

By ELEANOR BERMAN / Special Contributor to The Dallas Morning News

TALLAHASSEE, Fla. – I could hardly believe I was in Florida. The bright-lights hustle of South Beach and Disney were far away, and this city is strictly Old South.

Located in northern Florida near the Georgia state line, Tallahassee is surrounded by tall pines instead of palms. Antebellum homes abound, and there isn’t a high-rise condo in sight. The rich Southern flavor, the trappings of state government (Tallahassee is Florida’s capital), interesting museums and a youthful air fed by two major universities are good reason to explore here.

Fall is an ideal time to visit, and winters are mild, with plenty of sunshine and the temperature often in the 60s and 70s. A bonus: The tab will be a lot less than destinations farther south.

Tallahassee is proud of its many “canopy roads,” avenues such as Miccosukee, Centerville, Old St. Augustine, Meridian and Old Bainbridge where oaks draped with Spanish moss create green tunnels flecked with sunshine.

The city also boasts several National Historic districts, where antebellum homes and quaint cottages have been preserved as offices and residences.

Florida State University, a campus of 35,000 in the heart of town, is another asset. The school has highly regarded music and theater departments offering a wealth of concerts and plays during the school year. Florida A&M, known for its high-stepping marching band, is nearby. Both offer plenty of sports events, especially in fall when football is in full swing. At that time, half of the town’s residents seem to be decked out in garnet and gold, the Florida State colors.

One of the city’s jewels is Maclay Gardens, a 28-acre wonderland with more than 200 varieties of plants plus pools and trails. Celebrating its 55th birthday this year, it was the creation of Alfred Maclay, a New York financier, who established the gardens on the grounds of his winter home in 1923. They’re a splendid vision beginning in December when masses of camellias in 150 varieties bloom. Brick walkways and pine-needle paths invite a serene stroll beneath towering pines and oaks at any time of year.

At Mission San Luis, the state’s only remaining Spanish mission site, costumed interpreters lead visitors through each building of the re-created capital of western missions in La Florida from 1656 to 1704. San Luis was home to 1,500 Spanish and Apalachee Indian residents. An excellent museum includes a walk-through model of an archaeological dig site.

The Capitol Complex of state government buildings occupies several landscaped blocks in the heart of the city. The present high-rise capitol is of interest mainly for its top, 22nd floor, where visitors find art exhibits and a panoramic view of the city. The adjacent Old Capitol, however, with its classic dome and red-striped awnings is a nostalgic gem. Beautifully restored to the way it was in 1902, it includes the old Senate and House chambers, the Supreme Court and a surprisingly modest governor’s office.

The Old Capitol is under the umbrella of the Museum of Florida History, which has its own impressive main galleries in the state library building. While it has a unique story, Florida’s history also reflects much of America’s history. Permanent exhibits include a 9-foot-tall mastodon, Spanish galleon treasures, Civil War memorabilia, a reconstructed steamboat, and an interactive exhibit on World War II.

Kleman Plaza, a short walk from the Capitol, is home to two museums recommended for families. The Mary Brogan Museum of Art & Science, an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution, offers two floors of interactive science fun, including a weather station and an Eco-Lab with living sea creatures. The Challenger Learning Center has a 50-foot Digital Dome Planetarium with frequent shows and an IMAX theater.

The Tallahassee Museum at the city’s edge is another family favorite. Woodland paths on 52 acres lead to a zoo of native animals, including the endangered Florida panther and the rare red wolf. The museum also includes the restored and reconstructed buildings of an 1880s farm where crops such as cotton, sweet potatoes and sugar cane are still grown.

The main attraction at the Tallahassee Antique Car Museum is 135 prize cars, but there also are quirky collections of watches, baseball cards, outboard motors, Steinway pianos, guns, knives, jukeboxes, duck stamps, model trains, old cash registers, golf equipment and children’s pedal cars.

Knott House, an antebellum mansion, and Goodwood Museum & Gardens, an 1840 plantation under restoration, are among the classic homes in town, but they are modest compared to Pebble Hill Plantation in Thomasville, Ga., 28 miles away. Pebble Hill is a rare glimpse into the very private domains of the rich and reclusive hunting set, a tradition that began in the late 1800s. Even the stables are magnificent at this 3,000-acre estate. The columned home displays priceless antiques, equestrian and hunting art, and many Audubon prints.

Other discoveries await on easy day trips from Tallahassee. Several Tarzan movies were filmed at Wakulla Springs State Park, a 6,000-acre wildlife sanctuary 14 miles south of Tallahassee. The shallow marshes of the Wakulla River are a rich habitat for great blue herons, egrets, bald eagles and anhingas as well as turtles and sleepy-eyed alligators. All are easy to spot on the 40-minute guided boat tours.

Havana, a hamlet 12 miles from the city, is wall to wall with shops selling antiques and collectibles.

Quaint Apalachicola, with many buildings remaining from its pre-Civil War days as a thriving seaport, is a must stop on the so-called Forgotten Coast, 80 miles southwest of the city. Afterward, visit nearby St. George Island State Park, where miles of miraculously uncrowded powder-sand beaches sparkle beside the Gulf of Mexico.

Eleanor Berman is a freelance writer in New York City.

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